Source: Naturally produced by fermentation of renewable sources of carbohydrates. Approved by Ecocert Greenlife in accordance with the Natural and Organic Cosmetics standards.

Gluconolactone is a lactone compound formed by removing one molecule of water from gluconic acid. It is a mild acid that does not cause irritation. It penetrates cells slowly because of its large molecular weight, and has better hydrating properties compared to hydroxyl acid (AHA). Gluconolactone is suitable for sensitive skin. In addition, it is also a potent free radical scavenger, has anti-inflammatory benefits and improves skin tone. Gluconolactone is an efficient treatment to improve and prevent skin ageing, oily skin, acne and rosacea.

In peels PHA’s are the next generation of superficial chemical peels. Gluconolactone is an active ingredient that treats skin very gently without affecting deeper layers. The effect is very similar to that of AHA’s (alpha hydroxy acids or fruit acids like glycolic or lactic acid), but as a type of polyhydroxy acid gluconolactone is more beneficial. Containing five hydroxyl groups, it has more hydrating properties compared to alpha hydroxy acid with only one hydroxyl group.

Since it is a larger molecule, gluconolactone penetrates the skin slowly without burning it like the other chemical peels. That’s why non-irritating gluconolactone is perfect even for dry and hypersensitive skin. PHA when used alone doesn’t require a basic neutraliser application after the treatment and can be washed off with water only. It is a very delicate skin treatment that can be used as often as you wish to achieve desired result.

The mild effect of the peel makes it suitable for people with low pain threshold, causing no burning on skin or any other discomfort feelings. In addition, the risk of post-peel symptoms such as redness and swelling is significantly reduced avoiding post-inflammatory pigmentation.

Gluconolactone doesn’t accumulate in the cells and is easily excreted from the body. But even in relatively high concentrations it doesn’t have a mutagenic or toxic effect.

Indications of gluconolactone peels:
1. Epidermal dehydration (dry, thirsty, flaky skin)
2. Acne (comedones, blackheads, whiteheads, acne, post-acne)
3. Epidermal hyperpigmentation (pigmentation spots on the outer layer of skin)
4. Hyperkeratosis (rough and thickened horny layer of skin)
5. Seborrhoea (excessive oil secretion caused by a violation of the sebaceous glands) 7. Hypersensitive allergy-prone skin
8. Enlarged pores
9. Loose, sagging skin
10. Dull uneven skin tone
11. Photo-ageing (skin ageing caused by excessive UV-radiation

Properties of gluconolactone peels:
1. Anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects, boosts the skin’s immune system. Gluconolactone is a natural antioxidant, which is as effective as vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and vitamin E (tocopherol). It is contained in the skin maintaining optimal moisture content. Gluconolactone blocks the synthesis of pro-interleukin-1, which is responsible for the regulation of immune, and which high concentration in the horny layer of the skin can cause increased inflammation.

2. Restoring pH balance. The interaction of gluconolactone with skin begins once it is applied, affecting the acid mantle. The enzyme activity depends on the pH balance that may be disrupted by hostile environment, make-up, skin care or pathology. The gentle influence of gluconolactone helps to achieve proper pH level restoring pH balance and a proper skin renewal process.

3. Recovery of skin barrier properties, collagen fibres strengthening. Skin barrier integrity is dependent on serine protease activity – an enzyme that cleaves peptide bones in proteins. Skin cells are connected with protein fibres. That means that the reduction of serine protease activity caused by lower pH level in the acid mantle can help to maintain cell junctions. Gluconolactone also activates lipid synthesis in keratinocytes providing moisture into horny layer of skin.

4. Moisturising effect. The ability of gluconolactone to transfer water molecules plays a central role in skin moisturising. Getting into the granular layer of skin, water causes calcium ions concentration to decline sending signals to the body to stimulate lipid synthesis in keratinocytes.

5. Hyperpigmentation removal and photo-ageing protection effect. As a chelating agent, gluconolactone has the ability to bind and remove free radicals from the body. The oxidation process, caused by overabundance of iron and UV-rays influence, occurs in skin pigmentation that is a typical sign of photo ageing. Gluconolactone helps to bind free iron ions preventing the oxidation process and consequences of UV-radiation.

6. Lifting and firming effect, skin surface smoothing. Gluconolactone initiates processes that precede the production of hyaluronic acid in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, as well as synthesis in matrix metalloproteinase (necessary for tissue regeneration) and collagen.

7. Skin tone smoothing effect is provided by keratolytic action of gluconolactone – superficial dead skin cell exfoliation.

Betaine salicylate

Source: natural, derived from sugar beets.

Betaine salicylate is a fatty acid that’s derived from the sugar beet plant, betaine salicylate can be found in all sorts of fruits, nuts and vegetables, as well as occurring naturally within your skin. Betaine salicylate is a keratolytic beta hydroxy acid (BHA), similar to salicylic acid, which resurfaces the skin, improving skin tone and texture. Unlike salicylic acid though, betaine salicylate is surprisingly gentle on the skin.

It combines perfectly the benefits of salicylic acid with the unique and gentle skin improvement properties, an oil-soluble exfoliator that penetrates into the deeper layer of the skin, BHA is more effective than AHA as it helps to remove the uppermost layer of the epidermis. The removal of damaged and dead skin cells on the skin’s surface encourages the growth of new and healthy skin cells. It can improve skin conditions widely, and it has antimicrobial properties and an exfoliating, with moisturising function.

According to information based on in vivo testing, betaine salicylate shows comparable effectiveness to salicylic acid at double the concentration. So, in seems that in order to get the same results from betaine salicylate as a product with 1% salicylic acid, a 2% concentration of betaine salicylate is necessary.

Research has indicated that betaine salicylate may also improve collagen production, hyperpigmentation and intracellular water retention. Most pharmaceutical betaine salicylate is also vegan-friendly, due to sugar beet plants being used as mentioned earlier.

Due to its keratolytic (peeling) effect, betaine salicylate is even used in the removal of epidermal defects such as warts and calluses. But for normal and oily facial skin, the everyday keratolytic effect of betaine salicylate reduces the occurrence of blackheads and stops the formation of the clogged pores which can lead to acne.

As you may have guessed, those who will most benefit from using betaine salicylate are those who have acne. Not only is betaine salicylate effective at breaking down the sebum and keratin build up in the skin’s pores, but due to it being approximately half the strength of salicylic acid, it’s also gentle enough for sensitive skin.

This being said, as with all AHA and BHA exfoliants, we recommend being particularly cautious in protecting your skin from sunlight exposure following use. Always use a broad-spectrum SPF to avoid sensitivity and skin damage.

Ferulic acid

Source: Synthesis

Ferulic acid occurs in nature, in plants as a free acid or as an ester mainly in seeds, in leaves and in barks. Ferulic peels are superficial. Ferulic acid has strong antioxidant properties which fight against reactive oxygen species (ROS), repairing DNA damage. Its depigmenting effects derive from its function as a non-competitive inhibitor of tyrosinase.

The main indication of ferulic acid is photo ageing with benefits in melasma, acne, and rosacea. It is able to reduce signs of photo ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles, promote even skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation, and return skin to its natural brightness by stimulating cell replacement.

Overall skin texture is said to improve, and the treatment boosts hydration by increasing the level of ceramides in the skin to help prevent water loss. For patients with rosacea and acne, the treatment can reduce sebum production, improve the appearance of scars, and diminish pore size.

In daily skincare Ferulic acid is also interesting providing the following benefits: – a sunscreen effect
– an antioxidative effectiveness
– an anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial effectiveness

Sunscreen effect:
Ferulic acid and its esters like chemical sunscreen agents have a phenyl-2-propene structure that means, they have a vinylgroup at the benzene ring, which strongly absorbs UV-light.

By this absorption the stabilised phenoxy radical will be formed and later on a cis-trans-isomerization will occur. By this mode of action ferulic acid in barks, leaves and seeds is protecting the plant from the harmful rays of sunlight. Ferulic acid and their esters show a maximum of UV-absorption at 280 nm and 340 nm. By addition of 0.2 – 0.5 % Ferulic acid a sun protection factor of 3 – 5 can be achieved.

Antioxidative effectiveness:
Additionally Ferulic acid is able to prevent the development of radicals started by oxygen and UV-radiation. Each reactive radical Lx or L-O-O-x (lipoper- oxyl radical) which might get contact with a molecule of ferulic acid abstracts a hydrogen atom from the phenolic group of ferulic acid.

A phenoxyradical is generated, which shows a high resonance stabilisation. Therefore ferulic acid is approved as an antioxidant agent in cosmetics and in food. Ferulic acid and amino acids or dipeptides form mixtures with synergistic antioxidative effects against peroxidation of unsaturated fatty acids and fats of all kind.

Anti-inflammatory effectiveness:
The effect of many anti-inflammatory agents is based on their influence on mediators of inflammable reactions. Oxygen radicals belong to these mediators. The anti-inflammatory effectiveness of ferulic acid is based on its antioxidative potential. Ferulic acid is able to interfere in the cycles which are responsible for acne and oily skin.

Indications for ferulic acid peels:
1. Epidermal dehydration (dry, thirsty, flaky skin)
2. Photo-ageing (skin ageing caused by excessive UV-radiation)
3. Epidermal hyperpigmentation (pigmentation spots on the outer layer of skin) 4. Fine lines and superficial wrinkles
5. Loose, sagging skin
6. Dull uneven skin tone
7. Rosacea

Properties of ferulic acid peels
Due to its composition, the main indication of this system is the photo ageing with benefits in melasma, acne, and rosacea. It is able to reduce signs of photo ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles, promote even skin tone by reducing hyperpigmentation, and return skin to its natural brightness by stimulating cell replacement.

Overall skin texture is said to improve, and the treatment boosts hydration by increasing the level of ceramides in the skin to help prevent water loss. For patients with rosacea and acne, the treatment can reduce sebum production, improve the appearance of scars, and diminish pore size. This peel is also indicated as a preparation for other aesthetic procedures.

Ferulic peel is a very potent and safe peel system. Beginning with the first treatment, patients report that their skin feels smoother and tighter and looks lighter with a youthful glow. Immediately results are visible in the improvement of skin colour, making this peel one of the most valuable and beneficial products to clients.

Ferulic peel can be used in all seasons (including summer) and with all skin types and races. It offers a simple, practical, and safe new way to perform peel treatments in clinic, making it possible to achieve excellent results in a very short time. It will not create any burning or itching sensation during application, and home-care products based on ferulic acid boosts the results, increasing long term effectiveness.

Lactic acid

Source: natural & ECOCERT

Lactic Acid is an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA or fruit acid) produced by glycolysis. It is a natural, biologically safe product that plays an essential role in the carbohydrates metabolism in the human body and is also an important component of the natural moisturising factor of the skin (NMF).

In skincare lactic acid is suitable for those who have easily irritated skin. It also helps to keep pores clear by sloughing away dead cells plus excess oil, preventing pesky pimples, blackheads or white heads from forming. Lactic acid effectively speeds up cell turnover and stimulates cell renewal, moreover, it helps improve the skin’s natural moisture factor, or the way the skin keeps itself hydrated. Basically, lactic acid helps to keep the skin moisturised and feeling less dry.

In peelings the light-weight lactic acid molecules passes through cell membranes easily providing uniform penetration of lactic acid into skin layers and it provides a uniform exposure over the skin surface. Lactic acid is one of the safest and most gentle peeling agents. It is perfect for dry and hypersensitive skin, but can also work great for oily skin, which means it suits all skin types.

The multi-action of lactic acid positively affects many processes including epidermal regeneration, skin microcirculation, glycosaminoglycan, collagen and ceramide synthesis providing deep moisture and strengthening the skin’s barrier function. As a light superficial peeling agent, lactic acid is primarily designed for young skin with minor problems, but it also can be used as a part of complex therapy for anyone over 35.

Compared to other chemical agents, lactic acid is the gentlest available causing less skin discomfort. Lactic acid is hypoallergenic and skin-friendly being a naturally occurring skin component. In contrast to face peels with other AHAs, lactic acid peel doesn’t cause skin dehydration providing ultra-deep moisture and restoring the skin’s protective barrier. These unique properties of lactic acid peel make it suitable for both dry and oily skin.

Lactic acid doesn’t possess a photosensitising effect, so it can be used all year round. In summer it’s important to use a strong sunscreen with at least SPF 50+ and follow recommendations to prevent complications. Avoid excessive sun exposure and overheating.

Indications for lactic acid peels:
1. Epidermal dehydration (dry, thirsty, flaky skin)
2. Mild acne (comedones, blackheads, whiteheads, post-acne)
4. Epidermal hyperpigmentation (pigmentation spots on the outer layer of skin)
5. Hyperkeratosis (rough and thickened horny layer of skin)
6. Seborrhoea (excessive oil secretion caused by a violation of the sebaceous glands)

7. Hypersensitive allergy-prone skin
8. Enlarged pores
9. Loose, sagging skin
10. Dull uneven skin tone
11. Photo-ageing (skin ageing caused by excessive UV-radiation)
12. Fine lines and superficial wrinkles

Properties of lactic acid peels:
1. Keratolytic effect by disruption of the bonds between corneocytes in the horny layer, which results in exfoliation of dead skin cells. This process promotes skin renovation activating and cell proliferation in the basal layer.

2. Hydrating effect. As one of the NMF components, lactic acid provides powerful moisturising action. Natural Moisturising Factor is a water retaining substance complex in the horny layer of skin possessing the ability to attract and retain moisture providing skin turgor and elasticity. By epidermal renovation biologically dead cells of the horny layer (corneocytes) are replaced by metabolically active cells of the basal layer (keratinocytes) additionally providing deep moisture.

3. Lifting effect achieved by proliferation (cell division) and fibroblasts (dermal papilla cells) activity stimulation. Fibroblasts are primary cells of loose connective tissue that produce components of the intercellular substance (collagen, elastin, fibronectin) and are responsible for synthesis of glycosaminoglycans (or mucopolysaccharides known for lubricating properties that are essential for human body). By increasing hydration and viscoelastic properties of the skin, lactic acid improves skin turgor, soothes skin texture and reduces fine lines and small wrinkles.

4. Sebostatic and comedolytic effect by disruption of intercellular connections between corneocytes unblocking clogged pores and reducing sebum secretion. Lactic acid also promotes triglyceride degradation inhibiting lipase released by acne-causing bacteria, thereby preventing inflammation. It helps to control sebum secretion reducing excessive oiliness and relieving dryness, promotes large pores shrinking and improvement of acne skin with comedones, papules and pustules without over-drying it.

5. Whitening effect achieved by dead skin cells exfoliation. Lactic acid also facilitates uniform distribution of melanin granules in the epidermis and promotes tyrosinase inhibition – a melanogenic enzyme that affects skin colour. As a result, skin tone becomes fair and even.

6. Bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory effect. The acidifying effect of ionized lactic acid supported by skin non-penetrating lactate ion provides unfavourable conditions for pathogenic bacteria growth (most effective against anaerobic bacteria and slightly less effective against yeast and fungi).

7. Antioxidant effect. Reducing free radical production such as superoxides and hydroxyls, lactic acid provides strong skin protection from harmful environmental factors.

Lactobionic acid

Source: Naturally obtained from the oxidation of lactose.

A polyhydroxy organic acid with numerous skincare benefits, that does not cause irritation to the skin. Because of the multiple hydroxyl groups, lactobionic acid is a strong humectant and has high water content/supplemented moisture, that will keep the skin glowing and plump.

Its performance is reportedly better than some traditional humectants such as glycerin and sorbitol. It can prevent the cell membrane from oxidative damage, promote the formation of dermal matrix components including collagen and enhance the self-renewal ability of the skin.
– Excellent skin moisturisation and humectancy benefits
– Antioxidant, chelating, and other skin protective benefits
– Improvement in the appearance of skin clarity, thickness, and quality
– Protective benefits for photoaged skin
– Milder with low irritation

In peelings PHA’s are the next generation of superficial chemical peels. Lactobionic acid is an active ingredient that treats skin very gently without affecting deeper layers. The effect is very similar to that of AHAs (alpha hydroxy acids or fruit acids like glycolic or lactic acid), but as a type of polyhydroxy acid lactobionic acid is more beneficial. Since it is a larger molecule, lactobionic acid penetrates the skin slowly without burning it like the other chemical peels with alternative active ingredients can. It suits dry and hypersensitive skin.

PHA’s when used alone do not require a basic neutraliser application after the treatment and can be washed off with water only. It is a very delicate skin treatment that can be used as often as you wish to achieve desired results. The mild effect of the peel makes it suitable for people with low pain threshold, causing no burning on the skin or any other feelings of discomfort. In addition, the risk of post-peel symptoms such as redness and swelling is significantly reduced avoiding post-inflammatory pigmentation. Lactobionic acid doesn’t accumulate in the cells and is easily excreted from the body, and even in relatively high concentrations it doesn’t have a mutagenic or toxic effect.

Indications for lactobionic acid peels:
1. skin ageing;
2. premature ageing;
3. hyperpigmentation;
4. reduced skin elasticity;
5. skin predisposed toward allergies;
6. wrinkles – both fine lines, and age-related deep wrinkles;
7. down turning mouth, sagging face;
8. scars and ingrown hairs;
9. photo ageing.

Properties of lactobionic acid peels:
1. Regeneration. Lactobionic acid includes galactose, which is famous for its wound-healing properties. The acid aids the repair of damaged skin structures and faster regeneration. Due to its unique ability to stimulate wound healing, it can be used successfully on skin that is prone to acne and inflammation.

2. Gradual skin penetration. Lactobionic acid has considerable molecular mass and consists of relatively big molecules. As a result, it penetrates skin gradually, layer by layer, which is less damaging than peels performed with glycolic or lactic acids. Due to the gradual penetration, lactobionic acid does not cause a severe burning sensation during the treatment or complications after the peel.

3. High biocompatibility with human skin. Skin easily adjusts to the lactobionic acid; when all stages of the chemical peel are performed properly, no severe flaking, itching, or hyperaemia occur.

4. Anti-photoageing activity. Lactobionic acid inhibits matrix metalloproteinase, which is the main cause of skin ageing, and destroys the major components of the extracellular matrix of the skin, collagen in particular, causing elasticity loss, deep wrinkles and a sagging face. Metalloproteinase is responsible for the skin ageing process and the development of telangiectasia – oblong red areas on the face. Its activity is stimulated by long-term exposure to sunlight and leads to rapid photo ageing.

5. Antioxidant properties. Lactobionic acid can function as a link between iron ions, providing strong antioxidant effect. It removes free radical intermediates and protects skin from dangerous UV radiation.

6. Deeply moisturising. Lactobionic acid helps to moisturise the skin. It is capable of adsorbing water and trapping it inside the skin even when the skin is exposed to adverse weather conditions, i.e. increasingly dry air, for a long period of time. Lactobionic acid creates a water film on the surface of skin, which helps to tackle signs of skin dryness, itching, and tightness for a long time.

7. Peeling action. Lactobionic acid activates renewal of cell structures, allows for deep cleansing and gentle removal of dead cells, and particles of dust and dirt that cause clogged pores.

8. Capable of being used at any time of the year. Both mandelic and lactobionic acids effectively protect skin from UV radiation. Peel treatments can be performed in any season, even in summer, without fear of developing unexpected side effects, like freckles or pigment spots.

9. Rejuvenation, improved skin firmness. The skin is rejuvenated due to the acid’s ability to increase collagen production and slow down photo-ageing.

Mandelic acid

Source: Natural.

Mandelic acid is an aromatic alpha hydroxy acid belonging to the second generation of hydroxy acids: the peeling power without the disadvantages. Derived from amygdalin, an extract from bitter almonds. The mandelic acid molecule is larger than the glycolic acid molecule so does not penetrate deeply.

Despite its pKa of 3.41, stronger than glycolic acid, it is generally not irritating and well tolerated even by sensitive skin. Mandelic acid has been used in medicine as an antiseptic: it‘s a nontoxic substance after being ingested orally.

• Skin texture improvement (fine wrinkles and lines) without any irritation or erythema compared to results based on glycolic acid preparations
• Lightening action improves quickly (even dermal and epidermal melasma) with no adverse effects. Does not cause an inflammatory response or hyperpigmentation: suitable for dark and sensitive skin
• Produces less prickling sensation during application: suitable for sensitive skin
• Antibacterial effects: ideal treatment for acne or occasional breakouts.

Because of its larger molecular structure relative to other AHA’s like glycolic acid, mandelic acid is known penetrate slower into the skin, which in part moderates its irritation potential to the skin. By implication, the speed of action from a mandelic acid application may be slower or more gradual than some other AHA acids, and its use may be more appropriate for sensitive skin applications.

Mandelic acid has been found useful to improve various skin conditions including UV-driven lentigenes, darkening of skin seen with melasma, treating inflammatory non cystic acne, wrinkles, and fine lines.

Indications for mandelic acid peels:

1. Acne and rosacea;
2. Folliculitis;
3. Post acne and oily seborrhoea;
4. Comedones (blackheads);
5. Minor expression wrinkles;
6. Skin cover imperfections;
7. Low skin tone and tightness;
8. Pigment spots, freckles, uneven complexion;
9. Insufficient microcirculation in skin covering;
10. Enlarged pores.

This type of peel is also widely used to prepare skin for laser resurfacing and medium chemical peel since it has a bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory effect.

Properties of mandelic acid peels:
1. Has a keratolytic (superficial exfoliating) effect. It loosens the upper layers of epidermis and sloughs off unneeded skin cells.

2. Lifting effect is achieved due to synthesis of collagen and elastin which activates cell regeneration and smoothing of minor wrinkles.

3. Has a bacteriostatic and anti-inflammatory effect, i.e. suppresses generation of bacteria due to structural similarity to antibiotic macrolides. Thus, the acid reduces the risk of skin cover contamination and inflammation.

4. Skin-whitening effect is achieved through removal of the horned layer; skin becomes smoother and lighter.

5. Cytoprotective (antioxidant) effect is achieved due to the blocking of free radicals and the ability to fix heavy metal ions. This means protection of skin cells from the negative influence of the environment.

6. Comedolytic effect is achieved by means of unblocking the openings of hair follicles and reducing the secretion and the size of sebaceous gland excretory ducts. Mandelic acid reduce pores, treats sore acne with comedones, papule and pustules, as well as gram-negative folliculitis and blackheads.

Phytic acid

Source: Naturally sourced acid from a GMO-free corn.

It’s a plant extract with some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. Phytic Acid is a naturally sourced acid found in many plant sources, including corn, wheat, rice, soybean, sesame, and oat. Like other antioxidants, phytic acid can help to neutralise free radical damage in the skin.

Moreover, it holds the ability to absorb certain minerals (chelating properties) – specific ones that can have detrimental effects on the skin when they become too abundant. It appears to work mechanically to absorb iron molecules in the skin, which are responsible for causing damage to DNA. Phytic acid is a gentle AHA and is great for those with sensitive skin or those with rosacea.

In peelings Phytic Acid has a unique structure which provides self-neutralising activity that yields gentle keratolytic effects and aids in cell turnover. Proper exfoliation helps to maintain healthy skin by removing the barrier of dead skin cells clogging the skin to uncover the fresh new cells below, and provides many benefits such as the reduction of clogged pores and breakouts, increased collagen production, fine lines are softened and appear less noticeable, dryness and flakiness is greatly reduced, and skin appears smoother with a more even-toned complexion.

Hyperpigmentation can attack skin as it ages, making it look blotchy, uneven, and scarred. Several conditions can cause a greater production of melanin, the substance responsible for colour (pigment), resulting in dark patches on the skin. By inhibiting the enzymatic transformation of tyrosine into melanin, Phytic Acid can provide a lightening effect on the skin.

With exfoliating efficacy comparable to Glycolic Acid and the ability to inhibit melanin synthesis comparable to Ascorbyl Glucoside, Phytic acid is undoubtedly a mild multi-benefit acid for peel treatments.

American beauty experts were the first to provide phytic peel treatments. For this reason, some beauty salons call it a “Hollywood-style peel”. In the United States, it is extremely popular as it can be performed in any season and does not require a long recovery period. One can start going to work or going out immediately after the treatment.

The phytic acid is a superficial acid. Neutralisation is not required during the procedure. Besides phytic acid, the phytic peel has proven to be a great way to solve problems with mature skin that suffers from couperose.

Beauty experts recommend using it even during the periods of high solar activity.

Indications for phytic acid peels:

1. Skin with enlarged pores
2. Hyperpigmentation
3. Demodicosis in remission
4. Ageing skin
5. Stretch marks
6. Old and new scars
7. Photo ageing
8. Loss of skin elasticity
9. Dehydrated skin
10. Fine lines
11. Keratomas (skin growths caused by excessive sun-bathing)
12. Preparatory stage for more complicated skin treatments such as laser skin resurfacing or microdermabrasion.

Properties of phytic acid peels:
1. Scientifically proven ability to exfoliate and mildly cleanse the skin.

2. Capable of inactivating tyrosinase – the enzyme, which causes hyperpigmentation when it is excessively produced. This also explains good antioxidant, whitening, and anti-inflammatory properties of phytic acid, which help to remove existing pigment spots and effectively prevent the development of the new ones. Phytic acid is also characterised by a significant rejuvenating and lifting effect.

3. One of the characteristic features of phytic acid is that even highly concentrated 50% acid with low pH=1,2 will not cause any damage to deep epidermal layers. The effect of phytic acid on skin is therefore achieved quite rapidly and does not provoke any pain or discomfort.

4. The molecules of phytic acid are relatively large in size; during skin treatment, they do not penetrate deeply into skin, but stay in the horny layer. At the same time, they are capable of retaining hydrogen ions and keeping them from penetrating into skin. When skin is exposed to phytic acid for more than 15 minutes, keratinocytes start dying; this time period is considered the maximum possible time of exposure.

5. Preliminary studies conducted by Israeli dermatologists have shown that phytic acid solutions have a significant anti-cancer effect.

Salicylic acid

Source: Natural, raw material, currently being registered by ECO-CERT GREENLIFE, conform to the COSMOS Standard.

The history of salicylic acid goes back a long way. Even in ancient Egypt, Greece and Rome, recipes made from plants containing salicylic acid, especially willow bark, were used to combat fever and pain. The name of salicylic acid is derived from the botanical name of willow (Salix alba = white willow), from that bark extract the substance was first isolated in 1828 by the German chemist Johann Andreas Buchner. Other researchers isolated the acid from meadow-sweet (Filipendula, also known as Spirea) and called it spiral acid.

Salicylic acid, also called o-hydroxybenzoic acid, occurs in free form, esterified and partly glycosidic bound, in essential oils and as a plant hormone in the leaves, flowers and roots of various plants. Natural salicylic acid is one of the most effective skin care ingredients used to treat and prevent acne. It also has analgesic, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial and strong keratolytic effect.

It is a small molecule and highly permeable to the skin. The uppermost skin layers consist of keratinocytes connected by desmosomes. If desmosomes are damaged, the skin layers become detached. Salicylic Acid can dissolve the cohesion between the cells of the skin cuticle from top to bottom and thus acts like an exfoliator. Salicylic acid has a good therapeutic effect on melasma, post-inflammatory pigmentation, rough skin and photo ageing symptoms. It helps to clear and maintain pores to prevent the build-up of dead skin cells and oil on the surface skin.

The salicylic acid in peels has already been used for a long time in cosmetology without losing its popularity. The application of this peel contributes to better epidermal structure, improves the skin texture and complexion. The use of it provides material improvement of the skin condition without rejuvenation procedures. Salicylic acid in peels provides a strong antiseptic effect and evident cleansing properties as well. It normalises sebaceous glands functions and results in contraction or pores. Another advantage is its effective compatibility with other types of acids meant for oily acne skin.

Indications for salicylic acid peels:
1. seborrhoeic dermatitis;
2. acne of the 1-2 level of severity;
3. folliculitis;
4. hyperpigmentation of skin;
5. removal of the residuals after the acne treatment
6. ageing and photodegradation of the skin

Properties of salicylic peels:
Having a great penetration power and keratolytic effect, this beta-hydroxy acid causes the active peeling in the orifice of hair follicle preventing blackheads from emerging. It is salicylic acid that fights against such anaesthetic symptoms. Due to easy lipid hydroxylation salicylic acid provides perfect exfoliation, removing dead cells from the skin. When the salicylic acid is used in the correct concentration it can coagulate microbial proteins.

Many peeling products include salicylic acid because it can soften and loosen the horny layer of skin. It can increase penetration and improve results, but one should be careful, because the peel can be very aggressive and result in undesirable complications.

The superficial peel improves the skin texture, soothes fine lines, and improves skin firmness. It is very effective at preventing pitted acne scars. In addition to the rejuvenating effect salicylic peel has a keratolytic effect, showing great improvement in conditions such as oily and acne prone skins. After such a peel the skin appears younger and less oily, the complexion and texture of the skin is significantly improved.

Sodium lactate

Source: Natural, raw material, currently being registered by ECO-CERT GREENLIFE, conform to the COSMOS Standard.

Sodium L(+)-Lactate is the sodium salt of L(+)-lactic acid, obtained by neutralisation of the acid of natural origin with a high purity sodium source. Lactate is produced naturally by living organisms as a by-product of the glycolysis. Sodium lactate is an effective moisturiser with a high water holding capacity and buffering properties.

The human skin naturally provides two main barriers against excessive water loss. Firstly, there is the structure of the outmost skin layer, the stratum corneum (SC), which creates a physical barrier. The staggered alignment of the SC cells, the corneocytes, and the intercellular lipid lamellae effectively extend the route water must travel before evaporating from the body. Secondly, the corneocytes themselves contain a specially designed medium consisting of a variety of hygroscopic, water-binding substances.

This mixture, referred to as the natural moisturising factor (NMF), creates a biochemical barrier against skin dehydration. Among the constituents of the NMF we find amino acids and their derivatives, urea and lactates. Due to their natural occurrence, these substances are of particular interest for moisturising properties. Apart from being directly employed in formulations, the constituents of the NMF also serve as a guideline to identify further suitable ingredients. For instance, hydrophilic compounds with hydroxyl or carboxyl moieties such as polyols or sugars are further promising candidates.

Tranexamic acid

Source: Natural.

Traditionally, tranexamic acid is actually a drug which has been used in surgery to stem bleeding, also studies show that it has a positive impact on melasma and hyperpigmentation. It is safe to use for all skin types and skin colours. Tranexamic acid provides a powerful and specific anti-inflammatory action, inhibiting tyrosinase synthesis in melanocytes to keratinocytes in the epidermis. Also it calms the skin and helps to restore the skin barrier. In fact, tranexamic acid decreases the skin’s sensitivity to UV.

Hyaluronic acid

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacteria)
Hyaluronic Acid is the most hydrated biopolymer known. In living tissues it serves as a connective tissue organiser and water holding substance. The sodium hyaluronate comes from a biotechnical safe process; it is free of contaminants and GMO.

A certain level of stratum corneum hydration is essential for skin smoothness and elasticity, as well as for enzyme reactions important for skin renewal and desquamation. Hyaluronic Acid forms a film on the skin and hydrates the topical layers of the stratum corneum. In addition this film reduces the irritating and negative influences of the environment in the skin.

XS Hyaluronic acid

XS Hyaluronic Acid consists of a very low molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It is a breakthrough in anti-ageing properties with increased permeation through the skin compared to high molecular weight hyaluronic acid. It rejuvenates the skin by improving its viscoelastic properties and significantly decreases deep wrinkles.

Vitamins & amino acids

Acetyl Glutamine

Source: natural
It is non-essential and conditionally essential amino acid, meaning the body can usually synthesize sufficient amounts of it, but in some instances of stress, the body’s demand for glutamine increases, and glutamine must be obtained from the diet.

In blood, glutamine is the most abundant free amino acid. Glutamine helps skin cells function optimally for smooth, radiant, healthy-looking skin. Furthermore, Glutamine is scientifically proven to play an important role in the growth of fibroblast cells.

Collagen is the protein that gives skin its youthful firmness, and it makes up 75% of our skin. As we age, the amount of collagen that we naturally produce begins to decline, and therefore, the breakdown of collagen and exposure of skin to damaging ultraviolet radiation from the sun leads to the formation of wrinkles and sagging skin. Glutamine helps to reverse these effects of ageing by significantly increasing collagen production within the skin – reversing the effects of ageing, restoring skin’s natural tone, and smoothing out the texture. Acetyl glutamine is an improved form of glutamine.


Panthenol (Vitamin B5)

Source: natural
DL-Panthenol is the provitamin of DL-Pantothenic acid (Vitamin B5), and plays a key role in the human intermediary metabolism. Deficiency of Vitamin B5 can result in many dermatological disorders.

DL-Panthenol is applied in almost all types of cosmetic preparations. It cares for hair, skin and nails. It acts as a skin conditioning agent to provide deep penetrating moisture to the skin, stimulating epithelisation to provide wound healing and anti-inflammatory effects. It also functions as a hair conditioning agent to provides long lasting moisture to hair, preventing damage. It thickens hair and improves its sheen. This product can also be used in nail care products to improve hydration and impart flexibility.


Folic acid (Vitamin B9)

Source: natural
Because folic acid helps to facilitate the development of healthy skin cells, it can help to prevent premature ageing, specifically wrinkles and fine lines. It has also been found to increase the production of collagen to give you firmer and more toned skin.

Folic acid, also known as vitamin B9, works like an antioxidant to promote cell turnover and fight free radical damage. Studies have also shown that when applied topically along with creatine, it fights signs of sun damage and ageing, leading to firmer looking skin.


ET-vitamin C

Source: synthesis
Et-Vitamin C is a multi-functional vitamin C derivative with excellent whitening, anti-oxidation, free radical- scavenging and collagen boosting effects. Its stability is superior to other ascorbic acid derivatives. It exhibits strong inhibition effect on melanogenesis, reduces dark spots and age spots, fights photo-ageing by interfering with inflammatory cytokines and reverses ROS production to achieve free radical scavenging effects.


Tocopherol (Vitamin E )

Source: natural
Tocopherol is a form of Vitamin E typically derived from vegetable oils. Tocopherol is known as an antioxidant superhero that provides protection for skin. (This shouldn’t be surprising since tocopherols make up 96% of the skin’s natural antioxidant defence system!).

Studies show tocopherol: Absorbs UV rays and helps prevent UV-induced free radical damage to the skin. Acts as an anti-inflammatory agent in skin. Helps moisturise. Helps to reduce pollution-related free radical damage. There’s also preliminary evidence that it can help prevent scarring and reduce the signs of ageing, too.

Retinol (Vitamin A)

Retinol (Vitamin A) 

Source: synthesis
Regulates the processes of differentiation, proliferation and intercellular communication. When it gets into a cell it can make a bond with nuclear sensors and sections of the cell genome are activated or decelerated. Retinol provides minimal skin damage, a brief recovery period and a low probability of complications. Retinol can effectively cleanse the skin, has anti-inflammatory effects, makes skin glow, improves skin texture and structure, and provides a lifting effect.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)

Source: natural
Niacinamide (nicotinamide) comprises one of the two forms of Vitamin B3; niacin (or nicotinic acid) being the other, both of which provide equivalent vitamin activity. As an essential component of living cells, Vitamin B3 is essential for protein, carbohydrate and fat metabolism.

Niacinamide is a precursor in the synthesis of the pyridine coenzymes NAD and NADP involved in cell metabolism, and as such play a key role in the production of energy. Key attributes:
• Upregulates Aquaporin-3 (AQP3) (in vitro)
• Enhances skin tone (in vitro)
• Helps improve the overall appearance of skin
• Improves skin texture
• Evens skin complexion
• May help to reduce the appearance of acne
• May help to revitalise hair to minimise hair fall and improve its overall appearance

Widelash peptide: Biotinoyl Tripeptide-1

Souce: Synthesis.

Vitaminated matrikine biotinyl-Gly-His-Lys in association with provitamin B5 (panthenol). Widelash helps eyelashes appear longer, fuller and stronger by promoting hair bulb keratinocyte proliferation and ensuring optimal hair anchorage. It stimulates the synthesis and organisation of the adhesion molecules laminin 5 and collagen IV.

The tripeptide GHK, naturally found in the human body, promotes the wound- healing processes.

Double-blind clinical study with 30 female volunteers applying daily a product containing Widelash on one eye versus placebo on the other one. Measurements by image analysis at  15 days and 30 days. Evaluation by trained experts and self-evaluation after 30 days.

– Length of eye lash increased by 43% after 30 days.

– Diameter of eye lash increased by 40% after 30 days.

Pure skin natural blend

Souce: Natural

A multiple-herbal preparation that is composed of several plant extracts including Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice), Artemisia montana, Gingko biloba, Centella asiatica, Vaccinium corymbosum (Blueberry), and Rosa canina oil. It has multiple functions such as antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anti-microbial and skin soothing effects.

– Softens rough skin helping to strengthen skin’s moisture barrier, naturally restoring health.

– Comforts and calms skin, helping to reduce troublesome sensations.

– Can act as an “environmental shield” to protect the skin from environmental irritation.

Mainly used for rosacea, acne, impure skin and skin redness.
Rosacea is a common skin disease in adults that has a variety of clinical manifestations and most common in fair-skinned individuals, but it can be seen in any skin types. Rosacea flare-ups usually begins with flushing of the face, most noticeable the nose and cheeks.

This facial redness is the most obvious symptoms. Other problems cited are dry skin, itching, with burning and stinging sensations. Signs to look for are facial redness, visible damaged blood vessels, bumps and pimples, irritated eyes and, in severe cases, an enlarged nose. Such a chronic and hereditary skin disorder can be further aggravated by external sources such as sunlight, extreme hot or cold temperatures, spicy foods, alcohol as well as physical and mental stress.

The pathogenesis of rosacea is multifactorial, but it is clearly related to vascular hyper-reactivity. Foods and manifestations that induce facial vasodilation seem to speed the development of rosacea. The vasodilation of rosacea patients is greater and more persistent than that seen in normal person.

Rosacea is a chronic and often life disrupting disorder of the facial skin. Though commonly known as acne rosacea, it’s more identified as a skin rash. Unlike acne, blackheads and whiteheads are almost never present. While over 85 percent of teenagers and as much as 20 percent of adults are affected with acne, rosacea is most common in fair skin of Caucasian women with an age range of 30 to 60.

The medicinal Glycyrrhiza glabra (Licorice) in both Western and Eastern cultures dates back several thousand years. It was used primarily as a demulcent, expectorant, antitussive, and mild laxative. Licorice is known to exhibit many pharmacological actions, including estrogenic, aldosterone-like; anti-inflammatory (cortisol-like); anti-allergic; antibacterial, antiviral; and anticancer.

Artemisia montana contains absithin and anabsinthin, which give the shrub a strong bitter taste. Thujone has been used in herbal medicine and was said to cure digestive problems, worms, menstrual problems, corns, warts, acne, fever, cough, rheumatism, scurvy and dropsy. It is reported to have anti-nociceptive, insecticidal, and anthelmintic activity.

Ginkgo biloba is a medicinal product that is derived from the ginko biloba tree (also called maidenhair). A potent anti-oxidant, Ginko strengthens the capillary walls and helps protect the brain cells from damage.

The herb Centella asiatica is great in helping and treating the following problems and conditions; general tonic/anti- rheumatic/anti-arthritic/sedative vasodilator/energy / vitality/anti-ageing etc.

Vaccinium corymbosum (Blueberry) is considered astringent, antibacterial, anticoagulant, antidiarrheal, anti-edemic, anti- hyperglycemic, antiulcer, circulatory stimulant, diuretic, laxative, anti-hepatotoxic,  anti-diabetic, tonic, antemetic, and urinary antiseptic.

Rosa canina oil pressed off the Rosehip seed contains an amazing 77% of fatty acids (linoleic and linolenic). Fatty acids have very important functions in the regeneration of skin cells and repair damaged tissue.

Whitening peptide: Nonapeptide-1

Source: Synthesis.

Variations in skin colour are caused by different levels of melanin in the skin. Regular exposure to the sun causes brown spots known as sunspots and their occurrence increases with age. Classic descriptions of these troubles refer to hyperactivity of the melanocytes, which synthesise abnormal amounts of melanin.

Alpha Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone also named Melanotropin (a-MSH) is the natural substance produced by our body which is responsible for several physiological activities like pigmentation.

Tyrosinase is stimulated by the bonding of a-MSH on its specific receptor MC1-R. The stimulation of the tyrosinase activity, induces the hydroxylation of the amino acid tyrosine to DOPA (dihydroxyphenylalanine) and catalyses its oxidation to dopaquinone. The final step is the synthesis of melanin in organelles called melanosomes, in melanocytes.
The ideal skin lightening agent for cosmetic products is one that inhibits melanogenesis without cytotoxicity.

Mechanism of action
Binding of a-MSH to the MC1-Receptor on melanocytes is the first step in melanogenesis and the pigment formation. By binding and blocking the MC1-R, we can block the intracellular melanogenesis pathway and decrease the synthesis or the over expression of melanin produced by melanocytes.

Nonapeptide-1 an oligopeptide with an high affinity for MC1-R. It is a biomimetic peptide antagonist specific of the a-MSH (Alpha Melanocyte Stimulating Hormone). As an antagonist, it competes against the natural ligand (a-MSH) on its specific receptor (MC1-R) by preventing any further activation of the tyrosinase, and thus blocking melanin synthesis. Tyrosinase inhabitation reduces the formation of unwanted pigmentation allowing for the control over skin tone and brown spots.

Nonapeptide-1 blocks the melanogenesis pathway and inhibits tyrosinase activity and melanin synthesis.


Source: Green chemistry.

Neodermyl® is a pure source of bio-energy which can naturally diffuse into skin, re-energising senescent fibroblasts and triggering essential elements to produce collagen and elastin. Neodermyl is known as the needle-free collagen and elastin filler.

The extracellular matrix (ECM) is composed of essential polymers that provide the skin all of its properties: young skin is supple, firm and elastic. These polymers are different types of collagen (mainly collagens I and III) that maintain skin’s structure and elastin to provide its viscoelasticity.

Compared to hyaluronic acid (another major component of the ECM), collagen and elastin are quite sophisticated 3D proteins. Collagen I represents almost 90% of the total collagen, and the collagen III is the youth collagen.

Ageing = less collagen and elastin production, less energy
Enzymes (collagenase and peptidase) are degrading collagen and elastin along with ageing. This is particularly true for collagen III, a.k.a. the youth collagen, which degrades even faster than collagen I and almost disappearing with ageing.

Moreover, our senescent cells (fibroblasts) are no longer capable of keeping up the production pace of these polymers to cover the loss. This is due to the loss of energy required to drive this production. The main consequences are the formation of wrinkles, loss of firmness and loss of elasticity.

Neodermyl® is a new active ingredient created by a leading edge patented green chemistry process. It contains a safe and pre-activated source of energy: MG6P (Methyl-Glucoside-6-Phosphate) to feed ageing cells.

To reactivate collagen and elastin production, MG6P has been combined with:

– Essential amino acids: Proline and Lysine play a major role in the production of collagen and elastin that the body is not able to produce by itself.

– Copper to reactivate Lysyl oxydase, the enzyme which enables reticulation and maturation of collagen and elastin.
Neodermyl® is a pure source of bio-energy which can naturally diffuse into skin, re-energising senescent fibroblasts and triggering essential elements to produce collagen and elastin. Neodermyl® shows high clinical efficacy within 15 days resulting in visible reduction of deep wrinkles and improvement of skin firmness.

DNA protection peptide: Acetyl Hexapeptide-51 Amide

Source: Synthesis

Hexapeptide that mimics the activity of FOXO3a (member of the Forkhead box transcription factors), which is involved in cell repair, renewal and longevity. This peptide protects DNA from damage, stimulates its natural repair pathways and reverts senescence in fibroblasts.

DNA protection peptide maintains genomic integrity by protecting and repairing DNA damage induced by several agents, and delays cellular senescence to ensure longer and healthier ageing.

The maintenance of DNA integrity is essential for the proper functioning and survival of organisms. DNA strands suffer from the constant challenge of endogenous and exogenous genotoxic agents as well as replication errors.

UV-induced lesions may result in the formation of cyclobutane pyrimidine dimers (CPDs), a well-known form of pyrimidine dimers. Such damage can distort the structure of the DNA, altering its transcription and replication. Checkpoint pathways monitor DNA structure and control cell-cycle arrest allowing for repair and continue progression if every- thing is correct, before a mistake can be propagated to daughter cells.

FOXO3a acts as a master regulator that determines cell fate once damage is detected. Depending on the severity of the damage, this key transcription factor forces a state of quiescence in cells signalling for repair of errors or apoptosis. The active form of FOXO3a increases the level of well known anti- oxidants, induces the expression of genes involved in DNA-damage repair and triggers cell death when necessary.

DNA protection peptide imitates the activity of FOXO3a, increasing the expression of several genes involved in DNA repair pathways. It also provides protection to cells and rejuvenates fibroblasts.

Anti-wrinkles lipo-peptides: Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12 & Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1

Source: Synthesis

Palmitoyl tripeptide -1
The extracellular matrix (ECM) serves many functions in the human body, such as providing support and anchorage for cells, segregating tissues from one another, and regulating intercellular communication. It controls a wide range of cellular growth factors which regulate various cellular metabolisms.

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the ECM which provides structural support to resident cells. On the other hand, elastin fibers are connected to each other, forming crosslinks to maintain tissue elasticity. As a result of this construction, the combination and synergy of collagen with elastin in the dermis plays a major role in the overall elasticity and tension of the skin.

The extracellular matrix (ECM) provides the fundamental structure of the skin. It consists of an extracellular network of collagen, elastin, glycoproteins, and proteoglycans. ECM is generated by fibroblasts and interacts with them, regulating the development, regeneration, and turnover of the skin. Tripeptide-1 is a natural constituent of human plasma necessary for producing healthy skin.

It is generated during proteolytic degradation of proteins in the extracellular matrix after tissue injury and tissue turnover. Thus, it is claimed to be a growth-influencing factor and has been widely investigated as a wound-healing agent as it has the attribute of inducing fibroblast growth, collagen synthesis, and glycosaminoglycans production.

Tripeptide-1 is used to stimulate stem cell proliferation; The proliferation of stem cells, the body’s master cells, and the source of all cells and tissue such as brain, blood, heart, bones, muscles and skin, requires extremely low copper concentrations. When stem cells are exposed to higher copper levels, they progress into differentiated cells. Hence, Tripeptide-1 would increase proliferation of stem cells, while tripeptide-Cu increases their progression into differentiated cells. As stem cells are proliferated by Tripeptide-1, different functional cells including fibroblasts can be derived from stem cells.

Palmitoyl Hexapeptide-12
Wrinkling is often associated with habitual facial expression, sun damage, smoking, poor hydration and, most importantly, the chronological ageing process. As people age, their skin structure deteriorates, and one of these crucial building blocks is elastin, a protein that helps keep the skin flexible and tight, providing the bounce-back effect when the skin is pulled.

Elastin tends to deplete with age, and these changes in the scaffolding of the skin cause the skin to wrinkle and sag. Thus, not only the proliferation of elastin becomes extremely important in anti-ageing but also the proliferation of fibroblast, which produces elastin.

Skin is comprised of two types of important skin fibers: collagen and elastin. Collagen fibers, found in the reticular dermis, are the structural fibers of the skin. Elastin fibers, found in the papillary dermis, are the ‘rubber band’ fibers responsible for the ‘snap back’ quality of young skin.

Elastin is secreted by the fibrocytes, another form of fibroblast, and it is formed by spiral filaments. The spiral filaments consist of peptidic chains that can stretch out. After stretching out, the molecules resume their original shape due to this cross linking which is essential to molecular elasticity. Hexapeptide-12 is a repeated amino acids sequence in elastin produced by fibroblast. Hence, hexapeptide-12 demonstrates a positive effect on fibroblast production.

Anti-redness peptide: Tetrapeptide

Source: Synthesis

Rosacea is said to affect 45 million people worldwide. The inflammation of capillaries and pilosebaceous units, erythema, telangiectasia (dilated capillaries), flushing skin, pustules, itching and Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) are frequently associated with skin redness disarrangements. All these effects are mainly located in the central third of the face.

• Chronic skin redness disorder with visible capillaries that can also turn the skin dull.
• It typically affects individuals with pale skin and especially women over 30s.
• Its etiology is uncertain but several factors can induce it (stress, spicy food, sport, weather, alcohol).

In the natural response of the immune system to potential harmful agents and conditions, kallikreins and antimicrobial compounds like cathelicidins have an important role. They induce the release of interleukins (IL), which are among the increased molecules in facial skin redness and vascular alterations.

In skin disorders with erythema and dilated blood vessels, like rosacea, LL-37 expression is found to be abnormally high, it is locally activated and a cascade of inflammatory reactions leads to an increase of pro-inflammatory metabolites, IL-6 and IL-8 among others.

The dermal connective tissue may be damaged as the proteolytic degradation of the extracellular matrix (ECM), mainly of collagen, is increased due to Matrix Metalloproteinases (MMPs) activation. Therefore, red areas become more visible as capillaries are fragile and permeable, and blood vessels can easily dilate due to inflammation.

Tetrapeptide peptide helps to decrease facial redness and other skin disorders caused by LL-37 activation and subsequent release of ILs. It also provides a photoprotective effect lowering cell damage and skin inflammation negative effects.

• Lowers LL-37-mediated IL-6 and IL-8 release: IL-6 levels decreased by 24.2% and IL-8, by 22.8% with Tetrapeptides at 0.5mg/ml.

• Connective tissue degradation is reduced by Tetrapeptides that demonstrated a statistically significant inhibitory effect on collagenase activity.

• Erythema, redness and extent intensity are reduced by Tetrapeptides.

• Skin roughness diminished as well, by 7.5% at the end of the treatment.

Exfoliating enzymes

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacterias).

Gently eliminates the dead cells to reveal younger, healthier looking skin. An enzymatic exfoliation based on a protease obtained by fermentation. Enzymatic action that eliminates dead skin cells to smooth the skin’s surface and promote cell renewal. A gentle, enzymatic alternative to AHAs.

Zinc PCA

Oily skin is a headache for people suffering from it. Localised on the face, the scalp, the chest, the upper back, it affects the parts of the body that are the most exposed to view and the most aesthetically attractive. It is visible, is noticed and is often felt as a terrible social obstacle. It is very difficult to live with and sometimes is the cause of non-negligible psychological problems.

It is a real international plague, since it involves about 2 European women out of 5 and almost 50% of Asian and South American women. Oily skin can take on forms from a simple shiny skin all the way to oily skin with a tendency to acne.

Oily skin is generally weak and imbalanced, characterised by an unsightly hormone- dependent hyperseborrhoea. It results in an abnormal and unnatural shininess and in many cases is associated with irritation: the face is shiny and the hair is oily, without freshness and is flattened!

Zn PCA is a physiological seboregulator active ingredient specially designed to answer to the problems of oily skin with a tendency to acne. Its effectiveness will be increased when it is combined with a « pilot molecule » naturally present in the skin, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (L-PCA) that guides it to the target cells.

Zinc is an universal and oligo-essential anti-seborrheic agent with antiseptic activity that limits bacterial proliferation. It uses L-PCA as a physiological vector optimising zinc bioavailability and as a signal molecule to stimulate epidermal differentiation and reinforcing skin barrier function.

Zinc is the trace element present in the largest quantity in humans after iron. Because of its role in the constitution of more than 90 metallo-enzymes and its activity in almost 200 biochemical reactions of metabolism, zinc is an essential and major element for nutrition, detoxification and for prevention against cell ageing. Zinc is involved in the synthesis of nucleic acids, including DNA, but also in protein synthesis, cell division and in the structure and co-enzymatic activation of many key molecules in the organism and in the skin. It plays a role that is just as important in cell differentiation and thus has considerable healing activity. It also prevents the development of microbial infections as a result of its remarkable antiseptic properties.

Considerable scientific research has shown that zinc reduces sebum secretion by inhibiting 5 α-reductase. It has also been shown that the cutaneous application of preparations containing zinc increases zinc levels in the epidermis.

Growth factors

EGF epidermal growth factor

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacteria)
EGF is produced by modern bioengineering method-fermentation, using glucose as raw material. It has the same molecular structure and biological activity as EGF secreted naturally by the human body. It can promote epidermis cell growth, thus can be applied in anti-wrinkle and anti-ageing. In addition, it can also brighten the skin and remove wrinkles. EGF participates in skin regeneration through stimulation, proliferation and migration of keratinocyte, endothelial cells and fibroblasts.

FGF fibroblast growth factor

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacteria)
FGF is produced by modern bioengineering method-fermentation, using glucose as raw material. It has the same molecular structure and biological activity as FGF secreted naturally by human body.
FGF (basic and acidic forms) stimulates the growth and mitogenesis of fibroblast cells. FGF participates in skin regeneration by increasing the production of collagen and elastin in fibroblast cells. Basic FGF (FGF-2) in particular activates also the synthesis of hyaluronic acid.

IGF1 insuline like growth factor

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacteria)
Insulin-like growth factor (IGF-I), one of the body’s many growth factors. Insulin-like growth factors are substances that promote growth in the muscles. IGF-I regulates the anabolic effects. It goes to the muscles and ligaments where it develops lean tissue. By traveling to the fat cells, IGF-I burns fat. Subsequently, it increases lean body mass and decreases fat. Increases lean body mass, helping you burn fat, and builds up physical endurance. It increases protein synthesis, which in turn prompts tissue repair and accelerates skin recovery after aesthetic procedures. At the dermal level IGF-a helps to restore the phospholipid profile of the skin, it has a synergic effect with EGF on skin regeneration. IGF-1 increases the synthesis of hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate proteoglycan by fibroblasts.

VEGF vascular endothelial growth factor

Source: bio-fermentation (produced from bacteria)
Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor stimulates new blood vessel formation. VEGF, which stimulates vasculogenesis and angiogenesis, is one of the most important proangiogenic factors in the skin. VEGF is present at high levels in cutaneous wounds, and multiple cells types, including keratinocytes, macrophages, and fibroblasts that produce VEGF in response to injury. The importance of VEGF in the repair process is well documented, especially as a proangiogenic factor. In hair growth stimulation VEGF creates new blood vessels to improve blood supply to hair follicle, increasing the flow of nutrients to feed the follicle.

Resorcinol & Hexyl-resorcinol

Source: Synthesis.

Hexyl-resorcinol was proven to be four times more effective compared to hydroquinone, it works by modulating multiple sites in the melanogenesis pathway. It shows other surprising functions as it increases levels of glutathione and stimulates the antioxidant defence enzymes – glutathione peroxidase and glutathione reductase. Glutathione is well known to protect the cells from oxidative injury and DNA damage. Glutathione has antibacterial properties which makes it an ingredient of choice for oily skin types.

Hesperidia methyl chalcone

Source: natural extract from citric peel.

The popular flavonoid Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone is mostly found in citrus fruits and is known for its ability to protect blood vessels when introduced into your diet. The skincare benefits it displays is impressive antioxidant abilities to treat any skin damage caused from overexposure to UV rays resulting in the skin becoming inflamed and showing various signs of premature ageing, loss of collagen and elasticity and generally looking dull. The main skin benefit this of ingredient is its effectiveness in treating under-eye bags, which is why you will often find this ingredient in a number of eyecare formulations.

It lowers the filtration rate of capillaries, and less blood flowing though capillaries close to the surface of the skin potentially means less dark bluish discoloration under the eyes. It’s also thought to prevent leaking from the veins below the eyes, also preventing the dark blue or brown look from blood leaking below the surface of the skin.

Vegan squalane

Source: natural extract from Olive oil.

Vegan squalane is an upcycled vegetable squalane, obtained by the hydrogenation of squalene into squalane (C30H62). Its from a 100% olive origin and is certified by 13C/12C isotope analysis. This colourless and odourless oil is known as an active emollient, with highly moisturising properties and a non-greasy touch.

Vegan Squalane is a complete photostable vegetable oil. It mimics the skin’s own lipids with the equivalent of human sebum and prevents Insensible Water Loss (IWL). Due to its good skin absorption, vegan Squalane has deep moisture retention properties. Squalane has also demonstrated important anti-inflammatory properties.

Vitamin F forte

Source: natural (safflower oil)

Vitamin F Forte contains polyunsaturated essential free fatty acids with a particularly high content of linoleic acid in its natural form (C18:2; 9cis 12cis). The product is derived from safflower oil, which is subjected to high-pressure ester cleavage, with subsequent fractionated vacuum distillation. Vitamin F forte is designed for application to dry, seborrhoic skin with disturbed lipid barrier.

Essential fatty acids are generally called Vitamin F, even though they do not correspond to the classical definition of vitamins.

Among the polyunsaturated fatty acids, apart from linolenic acid, particularly linoleic acid is of great importance. Linoleic acid is found in natural plant oils mostly as triglycerides, namely with two non-conjugated double bonds in cis-9 and cis-12 formation. Rearrangement induced by oxidation may lead to formation of the conjugated 9,11 form with either cis-trans or trans-trans isomers.

Essential fatty acids have significant physiological functions, e.g. they influence the energy balance, synthesis of immunocompetent messengers, structure of the lipid barrier of the Stratum Corneum as well as the structure of the cell membranes.

Deficiency of essential fatty acids leads to a number of negative consequences which are a challenge for cosmetics:

  • dry and scaling skin
  • increased transepidermal water loss (TEWL)
  • hypertrophy of sebaceous glands and hyperkeratosis
  • weakened capillary vessels
  • influence on skin diseases, such as acne, atopic dermatitis and psoriasis

Natural UVA sunscreen

Source: natural extract from sea algae.

A natural UVA-screening compound from sea algae to protect the skin against photo-ageing. Unlike UVB, UVA is much less dependent on the time of the day or the season and penetrates clouds and glass.

UVA is the major cause of premature skin-ageing manifested by deep wrinkles and loss of resilience. Thus, our skin needs permanent protection against UVA. Ingredients that are applied on a daily basis need to be absolutely safe.

Helioguard 365 is a natural, safe alternative to synthetic sun filters for the use in anti-ageing products. Helioguard 365 consists of sun-screening compounds from the red alga Porphyra umbilicalis. They protect the skin efficiently against premature ageing.

Ultraviolet light, the invisible part of sunlight.

Sunlight is composed of ultraviolet (UV), visible light and infrared. UV-light is harmful to all organisms. The energy-rich radiation damages organic molecules like proteins, lipids and DNA and leads to the formation of free radicals.
UV light can be separated into UVB and UVA.

The short wavelength of UVB is absorbed in the epidermis. UVB is responsible for sunburn and can cause skin cancer. UVA, with longer wavelengths penetrates deeper into the skin, causing damage to the dermis. UVA produces free radicals that lead to the breakdown of the proteins collagen and elastin, the most important structural components responsible for the firmness and resilience of the skin.

Unlike UVB, UVA is only partially absorbed by glass and clouds and is less dependent on the time of the day, the season and geography. But about 40% of the outdoor UVA radiation is still received indoors.

The red alga porphyra umbilicalis contains natural UVA filters. Algae that live on the seashores are very exposed to sunlight. Thus certain algae developed most effective UV-screening compounds. The red alga porphyra umbilicalis, also known as “red laver” or nori, grows on rocky shores. The Porphyra species are a rich source of proteins, vitamins and minerals and therefore commecialised as sea-vegetables.

Unfortunately, Porphyra umbilicalis contains only low concentrations of the UVA-absorbing substances porphyra-334 and shinorine that belong to the mycosporine-like amino acids (MAA). For the production of Helioguard 365 these MAAs are concentrated and incorporated into liposomes.

For both compounds, Porphyra and shinorine, the maximum of absorption is at 334 nm. The extinction coefficient of both is between 40’000 and 45’000. Therefore, these two MAAs have the same absorption capacities as commercial, synthetic UVA-filters.

– Helioguard 365 is a safe and efficient ingredient against premature skin-ageing. – Helioguard 365 exerts a significant SPF-boosting activity

– Helioguard 365 shows clear protection against UV-induced DNA damage.

Pre & Probiotic complex

Souce: Natural

A pre/probiotic complex, spray dried on maltodextrin, made of :

• α-glucooligosaccharides (GOS), obtained by enzymatic synthesis, from vegetal substrates (corn maltose, beetroot saccharose),

• 100% pure plant juice, rich in β-fructooligosaccharides (FOS), obtained by cold pressing, of jicama or yacon tubers (Polymnia sonchifolia),

• Lactobacillus probiotic bacteria (L. casei, L. acidophilus), inactivated by tyndallization and freeze-dried. This product is used for the optimization of the cutaneous ecoflora, the strengthening of biological defences, and the improvement of the skin radiance by a restructuring and smoothing effect.

Pineapple enzymes

Source: Natural

The active ingredient bromelain is a mixture of protein-splitting enzymes from the stem of the pineapple plant. To extract the active ingredient, the fresh strains are peeled, washed and crushed. From this a fresh juice is pressed and afterwards the different bromelain fractions are isolated by filtration. Bromelain has a decongestant, anti-inflammatory and circulation promoting effect.

Bromelain is a natural enzyme. With its activation energy, it plays a catalytic role. It has a high catalutic efficiency and adjustable enzyme activity. Therefore, it is used in anti-ageing agents it selectively works on aged skin cells, to degrade and peel off the skin, which results in skin whitening and elimination of freckles. It is also used in anti-acne products for decreasing inflammation of the skin. Bromelain reduces skin darkening caused by the sun, stimulates and increases skin cell growth. It leads to soft and tender skin and has an antifungal effect.

Papaya enzymes

Source: Natural

Papain is an endolytic cysteine protease which is isolated from papaya. Adding papain into protein and grease included cosmetic products can whiten and smooth skin, lighten freckles and remove grease, accelerate blood circulation, improve skin function, and enhance product quality.

Caviar extract

Source: natural

Caviar Sevruga Extract is designed to bring skin care products a touch of luxe. As known, the Sevruga caviar is one of the highest valued and expensive delights. Caviar Sevruga Extract offers the unique extract for sophisticated skin care products. Rich in omega-3 fatty acids and works as natural antioxidant with anti- inflammatory effects.

Caviar extract was found to speed up the natural production of collagen up to 67% and significantly reduces the protein cross-linking (fibronectin). It contains a wealth of vitamins and minerals to nourish the skin and reduce the signs of ageing.

Caviar is very rich in vitamins (Especially vitamin A, B, D and E), oligo-elements (sodium, potassium, Magnesium, Phosphorus, iron), micro-elements (cobalt, copper, silica) proteins and amino acids. It has moisturising and emollient properties and its use is highly recommended for aged and wrinkled skin.


Souce: natural and organic from fractional distillation of the essential oil of (Vanillomopsis erythropapa)

It is the main active ingredient of the medical plant chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla) which is used in traditional medicine for hundreds of years. Bisabolol protects and heals the skin from the effects of daily stress. It is naturally occurring active ingredient that accelerates the healing process of skin.

Its added anti-irritant and anti-inflammatory properties make it a truly versatile active ingredient for skin care products Bisabolol also has a weak sweet floral aroma and is used in various fragrances.



Deficiency of key nutrients, especially calcium will cause imbalance in our body which in turns affects hair health. Although it is essential to note the advantages of calcium for hair, yet knowing the consequences of a lack in calcium is equally important. Calcium also helps with the contraction and relaxation of muscles, nerve signalling, blood clotting and with the secretion of hormones and enzymes. Hormones such as androgens, stimulate hair growth; enzymes such as biotin promote cell growth and strengthens healthy growing hair & skin.


Copper is commonly used in food, cosmetics and other fields. It can be used to treat medical conditions like copper deficiency that often leads to anaemia. It also has anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, helping cellular regeneration, restoring skin vitality and immunomodulatory function, delaying senescence.


Magnesium plays a number of roles in the body, being required for more than 325 enzymatic reactions, including those involved in the synthesis of fat, protein and nucleic acids, neurological activity, muscular contraction and relaxation, cardiac activity and bone metabolism. Helps prevent calcium build up on your scalp. When calcium clogs hair follicles, your scalp will be dry, flaky, and you could even see some hair loss. These calcium deposits on and around the hair follicles can increase over time due to scalp inflammation. Also magnesium helps with protein synthesis. Since hair follicles are made almost entirely of protein, this is key. Better protein synthesis means healthier hair and a predictable hair cycle with normal growing and resting stages. Protein synthesis also helps create melanin, which helps prevent your hair from going grey.


Zinc is crucial for helping to heal wounds and boost immunity, and it also supports a healthy blood supply.

Zinc is involved in hair growth and keeps the oil glands around the hair shaft working properly. Zinc plays an important role in hair tissue growth and repair. It also helps keep the oil glands around the follicles working properly. Zinc is also believed to play a crucial role in DNA and RNA production. This is required for the normal division of hair follicle cells, leading to healthier hair growth. Zinc also may help keep hormone levels balanced, which could be one of the reasons why it is so effective in preventing hair loss. There are even a few outlying studies in which people’s greyed, aged hair returned to its original colour when nourished with zinc-rich diets or hair growth supplements. As a bonus, zinc for hair growth may help eliminate dandruff on the scalp as well.

Tea tree oil

Source: Natural

Tea tree oil is an essential oil distilled from the Australian plant Melaleuca alternifolia. It has been used medicinally by Australian Aborigines for centuries and was identified as an antiseptic by the New South Wales chief chemist in the 1920s. In the decades since, tea tree oil has also been found to have substantial anti-fungal, antibacterial, anti-viral and anti-inflammatory activity. The oil is steam-distilled and has been produced and marketed in Australia for the past 80 years. It is only in the past 20 years, however, that Melaleuca alternifolia has been cultivated intensively as a commercial agricultural crop.

The species is unique to Australia and plants with the genetic makeup necessary to produce the oil are native to northern New South Wales. Consequently, it is here that most commercial production occurs. There is currently around 3000 hectares of cultivated tea tree growing in Australia and about 100 producers. More than 80 per cent of the world’s tea tree oil is produced in Australia. Almost 90 per cent of Australian tea tree oil is exported, principally to North America and Europe.

The oil of Melaleuca alternifolia has more than 100 components. The most abundant of these is terpinen- 4-ol which makes up at least 30 per cent and has an important role in the oil’s antimicrobial activity. Fungi are significant human pathogens, causing common superficial infections.

A study conducted in 2002 found that tea tree oil can inhibit and kill yeasts, dermatophytes (which cause superficial nail and skin infections) and other filamentous fungi. The sorts of infections or conditions that are associated with fungi and which may be suitable for treatment with topical tea tree oil included dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis (caused by Malassezia yeasts).

Matcha tea water

Source: Natural

Matcha tea water is an aqueous extract obtained by steam distillation. It is destined to become the favourite ingredient of the cosmetic industry without a doubt. ‘health plant’ by excellence, it prevents various types of stress, such as oxidative stress but it also stimulates microcirculation to detoxify the skin and thus slow premature ageing. Matcha tea mist is rich in amino acids, polyphenols, minerals and caffeine.

Genuine symbol of both luxury and tradition, Matcha Tea, is often described as the ‘green gold of Japan’. Matcha Tea is Chinese in origin but built its reputation in Japan in the 16th Century when it was introduced into the Tea Ceremony, in order to approach tasting from a spiritual angle of harmony, respect, purity and peace of mind.

Produced solely from Tencha Tea, its leaves are processed by a meticulous and ancestral technique, before being transformed into a very fine green and shimmering powder which catches the eye at first glance.

Matcha is a powerful antioxidant concentrate. It prevents oxidative stress and stimulates microcirculation to detoxify the skin and slow premature ageing.

Glacier water

Source: Natural

Argentiere Icecap Water is specifically selected from alpine glaciers. Collected on the French side of Mont Blanc, it has a very high level of minerals, especially calcium and silicium, that provides restructuring properties in the dermal and epidermal level.

Urban D pollution blend

Source: Natural

Urban D-pollution blend is used for the protection of cutaneous cells against cytotoxicity induced by atmospheric pollution such as cigarette smoke, sulphur dioxide, and heavy metals. This product is composed of phenolic acids contained in ivy and sunflower extracts are associated to phytic acid from rice bran, and providing a global anti-pollution activity by maintaining a healthy skin.

Sulphur dioxide SO2 is a marker gas of atmospheric pollution (car exhaust, fuel heaters, coal combustion). In aqueous medium the gas is transformed into bi-sulphite and metabisulphite (acid rains). The urban D-pollution complex protects against cytotoxicity induced from sulphur dioxide.

The cell survival rate increases by 200 to 300%. Cadmium is a heavy metal emanating from industrial sites as smelting works, oil refineries. Furthermore, this metal is produced by incineration of wastes.

With urban D-pollution complex, the protection against cell mortality is almost total. In the presence of our active blend, the layer of fibroblasts is not modified. Cells remain alive and viable in all conditions including protection against cigarette smoke.